The Sahara Desert was an unforgiving Three Thousand Five Hundred kilometer stretch of stone, sand and gravel. Tamanrasset, the largest oasis, was about a third of the way through. Before we could continue our crossing we were required to fill out forms stating our destinations and route, and have our equipment inspected by the National Police. The most difficult stretch a was waiting.
The following is advice for travel in the Southern Sahara excerpted from a brochure printed by the Algerian Gendarmerie National. The roads we would be riding on after the short stretch of tarmac ended in El Golea were designated category “B2 and C.”
In reality they weren’t roads at all, just unmaintained sand tracks with stone pylons that were sometimes covered by drifted sand marking the route.
The most important rule was “Suivez la Piste,” follow the track. You had to followed it regardless of how difficult it was and resist the urge to find another path and risk losing sight of those stone markers and wandering off into a landscape without recognizable landmarks.
Category B2: These tracks are only partially maintained, if at all and can only be used during the day. Driving on them at night is forbidden and vehicles must form a convoy of two or more.
Category C: Driving on these tracks is dangerous. It is absolutely forbidden to use them without a special permit from the department of the interior. Before you are allowed to use these tracks the vehicle and its equipment must be inspected.
Warning: Should the vehicle breakdown or you become lost, you must under no circumstances leave the vehicle. Voyagers should have a mirror or a white sheet with which to signal aircraft and smoke cannisters, one black and one red. Always travel with adequate water.
Frannie’s Corollaries for Desert Voyagers
The rules of the road were simple. Carry enough gas and water to get you to the next oasis, don’t break down. Never lose sight of the trail markers. Ignoring those simple rules could cost you your life. There were no shortcuts or alternative routes – if you left the trail in search of a firmer path the odds were good that you'd end up like those shrunken camel carcasses that were left like punctuation marks in the desert sand.
Life Savers
Pack flares and a compass.
Have a dependable motorcycle and keep it upright and running.
Have adequate fuel, food, and water.
Avoid illness and injury.
Don’t stray from the track.
Find a safe place to camp.
Make haste slowly.